Whananāki & some bays!

We first discovered Whananāki in July 2021, but due to work commitments, ugh, we really couldn’t enjoy the area, this time though, no real time limit.

After finally sorting out our air-conditioning at Mercedes in Whangārei (we’ll get to that at some point) and after perhaps the worst night sleep we’ve had in any van, due to extreme rain, we were more than ready to spend some time relaxing at a DOC (Department of Conservation/Te Papa Atawhai) campsite for a few nights… But we nearly didn’t make it.

Just as we were about to leave Whangārei, we received a call from the DOC Host from Otamure Bay (Whananaki) Campsite, advising us the road in and all around the campsite were flooded, not surprising, but we were gutted, so we looked at other options, at least en-route. In a small town 17km’s North of Whangārei, Hikurangi, there is POP (Park Over Property for NZMCA members) at the Hikurangi Hotel, but when we stopped by it looked deserted, the weather was clearing up, so we thought we’ll just carry on…

We got diverted along State Highway 1 (SH 1), North, so went on a little scenic adventure taking Marua Road. After a few windy roads, a bit of reversing and avoiding bush-chucks, we ended up along Jubilee Road, an unsealed road that skipped out on the whole of the flooding along SH 1. It took a lot longer and we weren’t too sure where we would end up, but it was a great tour and along Jubilee Road we passed and interesting little setup, Swiss Wood Technician. Looked fantastic, we’ll have to stop by next we’re that way.

Finally, and to the DOC Hosts surprise, we arrived at Otamure Bay Campsite. Beachfront, overlooking beautiful Otamure Bay, the campsite offers drop-loos, cold private showers and rubbish bins and the setting is gorgeous surrounded by pōhutukawa trees. It’s a very big campsite, but we always advise that if DOC like you to book ahead, do, especially after lots of rain or if the weathers going to be nice. We booked online, and as we have our DOC Annual Pass, we didn’t need to pay anything.

The campsite was immaculate and Cindy and Ray, the current hosts were very friendly and informative. We spent four nights here and had site 31, we needed the levellers out, like many of the sites do, but that’s all good.

We spent most of the time, swimming and going for jogs. We did the short walk/hike over to Tauwhara Bay, which is stunning! We also took a longer than expected walk into Whananāki North, it took us around 40 minutes, along Rockell Road, to get to the local store and to the famous Whananāki Foot Bridge. At 395 metres from end to end it is the longest foot bridge in the Southern Hemisphere! Completed in 1947, so that children living in Whananāki South could get to school in Whananāki North, and it’s still used for this today, how cool is that.

As we were leaving, the Host allowed us to fill up our fresh water tank with the water from their on-site accommodation, which was really nice and perhaps a one-off, FYI, the water available around the camp is not treated and DOC advise it be boiled before use. We highly recommend Otamure Bay DOC Campsite. All the info including fees can be found by clicking here, Otamure Bay DOC Campsite. Back on the road.

At the advice of Cindy, we stopped at Helena Bay Cafe & Art Gallery, along the Secret Coast Route, taking a short cut along uncleared, Pigs Head Road. Word of advise, if you’re in anything the size of our van, or larger park at the top and walk down the hill to the cafe. It was very tight, and few areas turn around. The gallery/shop was great, loads of interested pieces to look at, and great views from the cafe, which we didn’t eat at.

We carried on, taking a sneaky peak and all the bays along route, Helena Bay, Mohei Bay, Mōkau Bay and Ōakura Bay. All lovely and just a short detour off of Russell Road. Worth the stops, even if just for photos and to admire the scenery.

Arriving at Puriri Bay (Whangaruru North Head) DOC Campsite… Wasn’t the nicest check-in process. Check-in for DOC Campsites is now 2pm, not too sure how long that has been the case, but if the campsite is hosted, its 2pm. We arrived at 12pm, and honestly didn’t think we would have an issue, well we did. The Host, can’t remember her name, could barely contain her impatience with us for arriving early, which we were apologetic for, but, she had no movement at all. Our campsite was free, and the ground was dry, but no, we spent the next two hours in the campsite carpark, staring at our campsite… You’d think as we have previously managed a very busy Holiday Park and hosted at DOC campsites we’d understand, but not really, we made exceptions, especially if the site was free. Anyway, never mind. Don’t arrive early!

We finally set-up on site 84, needed the levellers again, and it was stunning. The weather was gorgeous, and for some reason we were the only campers on this side of the camp, which was fantastic, we had so much space around us. Again, this campsite offers drop-loos, private cold showers and non-potable water, but also hikes and walks! The bay itself was calm the whole time we were there and is great for swimming.

We decided to do the Whangaruru North Head full-track, 6.6kms. Generally considered a moderately challenging route by AllTrails and it was a bit of a hard slog in the humidity, lots of steps and steep inclines, but definitely worth it, beautiful areas of thick native bush, great views and a good workout. We spent the rest of our four days, just relaxing, sadly didn’t spot any kiwi’s, but did hear them.

We’d say Puriri Bay is more beautiful than Otamure Bay and there are more walks to do, but both are definitely worth a visit! Nothing beats going to sleep to the sound of waves, and having a calm bay to take a dip in a few metres from your van. Just remember to book ahead, and don’t arrive early. Also, be mindful when arriving at Puriri Bay, the road in to the campsite is steep, and narrow, take it easy.