“The Bay of Islands is a subtropical micro-region known for its stunning beauty & history. For those that love beaches and water activities, it’s paradise. A three-hour drive north of Auckland, the Bay of Islands encompasses 144 islands between Cape Brett and the Purerua Peninsula and includes the boutique towns of Opua, Paihia, Russell and Kerikeri.” newzealand.com
Watch our Youtube Video on the Bay of Islands below!
First Stop: Wineries
Romantic Russell
Next we headed onto Russell/Kororāreka itself. The town is packed with history, being the first permanent European settlement and seaport in New Zealand, as well as New Zealand’s original capital! Although, in the early 1800’s it soon developed a bad reputation for lawlessness and was originally known as the ‘Hell Hole of the Pacific’! Whalers, sealers and merchants would frequently dock and pleasure themselves with prostitution and such…
As we strolled around Russell, it must be one of the most picturesque towns in New Zealand, a far cry from what must have once been. Right on the waterfront with plenty of boutique shops, cafes and places to see. We recommend the Russell Fish Co. for a very well priced and yummy feed. Best mushy peas we’ve had in New Zealand, and we know a thing or two about mushy peas!!!
We decided to park up at the RSA Russell & Diggers Restaurant car park and as we are RSA (Returned Services Association) members we could stay overnight for free, so we set up camp! There is not many options in the way of low cost camps in Russell, which is a shame, and may put some people off staying longer.
HOT TIP: If you join your local or any RSA in New Zealand, this generally allows you to use all of your benefits at around 180 other RSA’s across the country, normally including staying overnight for free – well worth the money, and such a good cause.
On our first day we visited the Pompallier Mission and Printery, and thanks to our Heritage New Zealand/Pouhere Taonga passes, entry was free (normally $20.00 per adult for the tour). The mission served as the headquarters to the French Catholic mission to the Western Pacific. It is New Zealand’s oldest Roman Catholic building, oldest rammed earth building, and oldest industrial building. The Mission printed thousands of religious texts and distributed them to Māori communities for free!
The tour was great, we were able to experience the whole book making process from start to finish and get hands on printing our own parchment. We would definitely recommend a visit if you’re in Russell!
That evening we headed back to the RSA for a couple of drinks, and a few games of pool and darts! The locals are friendly and everyone seemed happy the whole time we were visiting.
The next day we went for a swim along Russell beachfront and wow it was cold! After a costume change, we headed to the Duke of Marlborough Hotel for lunch, which holds New Zealand’s first liquor licence, the food was pretty nice, and service was exceptional! Loved it. They have been ‘Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates since 1827’. The architecture is awesome and the decor inside is very cool!
In the afternoon we headed 2 minutes over the hill to Long Beach to dry our clothes as they didn’t dry properly at the local laundromat, just one of the hassles of vanlife… Long Beach is a perfect place to spend a few hours by the sea, relaxing.
On our final day in Russell we headed up to Flagstaff Hill, which is a short uphill walk to an awesome lookout with 360 degree views and where there is yet again more history on conflicts and wars between Māori and Europeans.
Paihia & Island Hopping
We left Russell and headed for Okiato to catch the vehicle ferry across to Opua through Northland Ferries! This did cost us $25.00 for a five minute journey but it saved us having to drive for an extra hour and its all part of the experience. The ferry runs every five minutes and you can pay cash or card when you are on-board.
HOT TIP: If you’re towing, make sure you go at high tide, we were told this, something to do with ground clearance when disembarking.
From the port of Opua we drove straight to Paihia which is a nice and touristy seaside town. We stayed at the Paihia Ex-Services Club in their car park which is $10.00 per night and very central so we could walk to all the shops and our cruise the next day.
We booked to go onto the Fullers Great Sights ‘Discover The Bays/Hole In The Rock’ cruise, which lasts about 4.5 hours with a stop off at Urupukapuka Island. We booked through Bookme.co.nz and managed to grab a deal for $99.00 each. Unfortunately we did not see any marine mammals on the tour, which is of course not guaranteed, as nature will do what it wants.
We did see lots of beautiful islands and scenery and then headed out to the South Pacific Ocean where things got a bit choppy. As we were on the outside deck we did get wet and whoever was walking around did get thrown around! As the swells were too rough we didn’t get chance to go through the hole in the rock but we got pretty close and this was good enough!
Urupukapuka Island was our next stop, and as we had taken the morning tour, we had the option of staying longer on the island and catching the last ferry back at 5.45pm. The island has numerous walking tracks and we completed most of them. There was some breathtaking views, idyllic beaches and lots of sheep. Although be prepared for lots of inclines and declines!
Being a pest free island, we saw many different birds. The highlight of the island was definitely seeing an Eagle Ray right up close. We walked up and down the shoreline with him/her for about 20 minutes! So special.
When we arrived back into Paihia, we thought we’d head to the town of Kawakawa and stay at the Te Hononga – Hundertwasser Memorial Park freedom camp. This was a great stop in the centre of town with some very quirky architecture…. We didn’t stay long as we had already planned to leave early for Waitangi!!!
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
When we woke up, it was raining heavily and luckily our next stop was the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, most of which is an indoor day. This costs $30.00 for residents of New Zealand and it’s worth every cent. We went away feeling like we were moved by the experiences of the day and what we had learnt.
“Often called the ‘Birthplace of our Nation’, Waitangi weaves together the strands and stories of many people, events and places to reveal the rich cultural history of Aotearoa New Zealand, offering an inspiring and meaningful experience for every visitor.”
“Kīia ai a Waitangi te ‘Wāhi i whānau ai tō tātou Whenua’, ā, ka raranga tahi i ngā aho me ngā kōrero o ngā iwi, ngā mahi me ngā wāhi nunui hei whakaatu i te hītori ahurea rētō o Aotearoa, me te aha ka tuku i te wheako whakamanawa, whaitake hoki ki ngā manuhiri katoa.” waitangi.org.nz
There are two large museums to walk through at your leisure. The Te Kōngahu/Museum of Waitangi which cover the history of Waitangi and New Zealand. Te Rau Aroha/Museum of the Price of Citizenship which covers the history of wars and stories of fallen heroes. Be prepared, there is a lot of reading in these museums but its worth taking your time.
Included in the price is an excellent guided tour of the Grounds, Treaty House, Te Whare Rūnanga, and traditional Māori waka taua (war canoes). The tour guide was extremely knowledgeable and encouraged questions. This ends with an inspiring cultural performance inside the Te Whare Rūnanga. Starting with a pōwhiri (welcome), and moving on to waiata (songs), poi and a traditional haka (war dance). This is not to be missed!
Kerikeri & Surrounds
After spending around 4 hours at Waitangi, we headed to Kerikeri, and stayed at the Rainbow Falls NZMCA Park. This is for NZMCA members and self contained set ups only, and costs $5.00 per adult, per night. Just a short 2 minute stroll from the camp you arrive at Rainbow Falls itself, which was pouring with water after all the rain. We were lucky enough to see a rainbow coming off the falls! The campsite itself is cheap and cheerful with no facilities apart from bins. It’s a large grassy field with some gravel and can get boggy.
Later that day we headed to the Kerikeri Mission Station, to have a look at the Stone Store and Kemp House, both historically important buildings and managed by Heritage New Zealand. The tour normally costs $20.00 per adult, but thanks to our Heritage New Zealand Pass, we got free entry!
HOT TIP: If you purchase this yearly pass for $69.00, this gives you free access to all of the 45 properties managed by Heritage New Zealand across New Zealand, plus many more benefits. This pass has paid for itself after just two visits!
The Stone Store is the oldest stone building in New Zealand, completed in 1836. The bottom level is an excellent gift shop and on the top levels is a self guided museum with lots of history.
Kemp house is New Zealand’s oldest surviving building and house! The tour is more self guided, and looking through the house is like stepping back in time.
The next day we headed to a few wineries in the region continuing the Northland Wine Trail. Our first stop was Marsden Estate Winery & Restaurant, a stunning property set in beautiful grounds with ponds and vines all around. Our host, Sera was so friendly and informative. We purchased a bottle of delicious Merlot and had a great experience, one of the best wineries we’ve been to on the North Island/Te Ika-a-Māui. Tastings are $8.00 per person which is reasonable. Side note: if you have a spare few million, this vineyard is up for sale!
Our second stop was the Fat Pig Vineyard, ran by a lovely lady called Janet, if we remember rightly, and her husband. By their own admission they are both quite new to running a vineyard, although their wine did not disappoint and their bubbly was so yummy! Tastings were free and the wine prices very reasonable!
That night we headed inland slightly to Puketi Forest and camped at the Puketi Recreation Area DOC Campsite. Due to the rain, a lot of the campsite was fenced off. Even so, there was only a few places to park and it was very tight! No big rigs here, we think it is mainly targeted towards tents and walkers.
There is a short 45 minute walk named the Puketi Nature Trail from the campsite into a Kauri forest. The walk is easy and truly worth it to be fully immersed in nature and by the forest.
On our final morning in the Bay of Islands, we headed to the Old Packhouse Markets, which are on in Kerikeri every Saturday and Sunday. Definitely worth a stop to sample the local produce. There are lots of food stalls, arts and crafts, antiques and even live music.
Final Thoughts on the Bay of Islands
The Bay of Islands did not leave us disappointed. There is lots to do, from cruises, walks, shopping, wineries, and beautiful beaches. You definitely need to get on a boat/ cruise to fully appreciate the area.
Freedom camps are few and far between though, and it would have been nice to have the option of a few more as we are fully self contained and off grid.
Our highlight would probably be Russell and just enjoying spending time in such a pretty place with friendly people and lots to keep us busy.
Next stop, the Far North…